If you’ve ever tried making beeswax wraps using one of the simple recipes online, there’s a good chance you’ve been disappointed.
Maybe they cracked when you folded them.
Maybe they weren’t sticky enough to stay wrapped around your sandwich.
Or perhaps they left flakes of beeswax all over your food after a few weeks.
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I’ve been there too.
After experimenting with several different recipes, I eventually discovered why commercial beeswax wraps work so much better than the basic “grated beeswax on cotton” versions you’ll often find online.
The secret is that the best reusable food wraps don’t just contain beeswax.
They also contain jojoba oil for flexibility and tree resin (damar resin or pine resin) for the natural tackiness that allows the wraps to grip bowls and stick to themselves.
The result is a wrap that’s softer, more durable, far less likely to crack, and will last for many months with proper care.
If you’re looking for a homemade beeswax wrap recipe that performs like the commercial zero-waste wraps, this is the one I recommend.
Watch Me Make These Beeswax Wraps
If you’d rather watch the entire process first, here’s the step-by-step video where I make these wraps from start to finish.
Seeing how thick the coating should be and how the finished wraps look makes the whole project much easier.
After you’ve watched the video, continue reading below for all the details, troubleshooting tips and answers to the most common questions.
Quick Answer
To make durable beeswax wraps, melt together 100g beeswax, 20g damar resin (or pine resin), and 3 teaspoons of jojoba oil. Brush the mixture onto thin cotton fabric, warm it in the oven until the coating soaks through evenly, then allow it to cool. The finished wraps become reusable food wraps that can replace plastic cling wrap for bread, cheese, sandwiches, fruit and leftovers.
Contents
Why Make Beeswax Wraps?
Plastic wrap is one of those products that’s become so common we hardly notice how often we use it.
Wrapping sandwiches.
Covering leftovers.
Keeping cheese fresh.
Wrapping fruit for lunches.
Taking a plate of baking to friends.
It’s incredibly convenient.
Unfortunately it’s also designed to be thrown away after a single use.
Once plastic wrap enters the environment it can persist for decades, and wildlife often mistakes it for food.
When we first started reducing the amount of plastic in our kitchen, replacing cling film was one of the biggest changes we made.
Homemade beeswax wraps quickly became one of those simple swaps that we actually stuck with.
They’re reusable, washable, compostable at the end of their life, and they genuinely work.
Better still, food often keeps fresher because the fabric allows it to breathe rather than trapping moisture like plastic wrap does.
No more sweaty cheese.
No more soggy sandwiches.
No more slimy avocado.
Why This Recipe Works Better Than Simple Beeswax Wrap Recipes
One thing you’ll notice if you search online is that many tutorials tell you to simply sprinkle grated beeswax over cotton fabric and bake it in the oven.
While that certainly produces a waxed cloth but it usually doesn’t produce a particularly good beeswax wrap.
I tried those methods when I first started making reusable food wraps and was honestly disappointed.
The wraps cracked.
They weren’t very sticky.
They became brittle fairly quickly.
Most importantly, they didn’t grip bowls or cling to themselves the way commercially made wraps do.
After experimenting with several different combinations, I discovered why.
Commercial beeswax wraps almost always contain three main ingredients:
Beeswax provides the waterproof coating.
Tree resin adds the natural tackiness that helps the wrap stick to itself.
Jojoba oil keeps everything flexible so the coating bends instead of cracking.
The extra ingredients make a remarkable difference.
Although they’re slightly harder to source, they’re well worth it if you want wraps that last for months instead of weeks.
Ingredients You’ll Need
One of the nice things about this project is that there aren’t many ingredients.
Once you’ve sourced them the first time, you’ll usually have enough left over to make several batches.
For approximately six sandwich-sized wraps you’ll need:
| Ingredient | Amount | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Beeswax | 100g (3.5 oz) | Creates the waterproof coating. |
| Damar resin or pine resin | 20g (.7 oz) | Adds stickiness and durability. |
| Jojoba oil | 3 teaspoons (15ml) | Keeps the wraps soft and flexible. |
| 100% cotton fabric | Six 30 x 30cm squares | Forms the reusable wrap. |
If you’re making these in New Zealand I found my things here:
Choosing the Best Fabric
The fabric you choose has a much bigger impact than most people realise.
When I made my very first beeswax wraps, I used heavy calico because that’s what I had available.
It seemed like a sensible choice.
It wasn’t.
The fabric was simply too thick.
It soaked up huge amounts of wax, became stiff, and refused to wrap neatly around bowls or sandwiches.
Since then I’ve had much better results using lightweight 100% cotton.
Quilting cotton works beautifully.
Old cotton bed sheets also work surprisingly well if you’re happy with plain colours.
The thinner the fabric, the easier it is for the wax mixture to penetrate evenly.
That means softer wraps that last longer and fold much more easily.
I usually wash and dry the fabric before cutting it into squares so any shrinkage happens before the wax goes on.
For lunchboxes, a square around 30cm (12 inches) works well, while larger pieces are perfect for covering salad bowls, platters and bread dough.
What Type of Beeswax Should You Use?
One of the questions I’m asked most often is whether it matters if you use beeswax pellets, blocks or grated beeswax.
The good news is that they’re all exactly the same product.
The only real difference is how quickly they’ll melt.
Beeswax pellets (sometimes called pastilles) are convenient because they’re already small enough to go straight into the pot. If you’ve bought beeswax in larger blocks, simply grate it with a cheese grater or chop it into small pieces before melting.
The smaller the pieces, the faster and more evenly they’ll melt, which makes the whole process much easier.
If you’re lucky enough to keep your own bees or know a local beekeeper, this is a wonderful use for clean beeswax cappings.
Why Do We Use Jojoba Oil?
At first glance, adding oil to beeswax might seem a little strange, but it serves a very important purpose.
Pure beeswax becomes quite brittle once it cools.
That’s why simple beeswax-only wraps often crack after they’ve been folded a few times.
Jojoba oil softens the coating, making it much more flexible. Instead of cracking, the wrap bends comfortably around bowls, sandwiches and blocks of cheese.
Jojoba oil has another advantage too.
It’s naturally stable, food safe and has antimicrobial properties, making it an excellent choice for reusable food wraps.
I’ve experimented with several different oils over the years and jojoba consistently gives the nicest finish.
If you can’t find jojoba oil, olive oil or sweet almond oil can be substituted, although the wraps may feel slightly different and won’t have the same long shelf life.
I wouldn’t recommend coconut oil because it becomes quite hard at normal room temperatures, making the finished wraps much stiffer.
Why Add Tree Resin?
If there’s one ingredient that transforms homemade beeswax wraps from “okay” to “wow”, it’s tree resin.
This is the ingredient that gives the wraps their natural tackiness.
Without it, the fabric simply doesn’t grip very well.
The wrap may fold over itself, but it won’t cling tightly around bowls or stay wrapped around your lunch.
Adding tree resin creates that gentle stickiness that makes commercial beeswax wraps so satisfying to use.
You can use either damar resin or pine resin.
I personally prefer damar resin because it has a much milder smell. Pine resin certainly works, but it has a stronger aroma that can linger on the wraps for a while, particularly when they’re new.
Damar resin is commonly used by artists in oil painting and furniture finishing, but it’s also used in food glazes and is considered food safe.
Don’t worry if your resin comes in large crystals.
Simply crush it into small pieces before adding it to the beeswax. Smaller pieces melt much more quickly and create a smoother mixture.
Equipment You’ll Need
You don’t need any specialised equipment, but I do recommend using older utensils that you’re happy to dedicate to wax projects.
Beeswax has an uncanny ability to cling to everything it touches, and while it eventually cleans off, it’s much easier if you’re not worried about keeping your favourite saucepan spotless.
For this project you’ll need an old saucepan or double boiler, a paintbrush for applying the wax mixture, a baking tray lined with aluminium foil or baking paper, and either a mortar and pestle or something heavy to crush the resin.
If your beeswax comes in large blocks, a standard cheese grater also makes life much easier.
One of my favourite little tips is to line the baking tray with foil rather than baking paper. Any excess wax that drips onto the foil can simply be picked up by the next piece of fabric, meaning almost nothing goes to waste.
How to Make Beeswax Wraps
Step 1 – Melt the Beeswax and Resin
Begin by adding the beeswax and crushed damar resin to an old saucepan.
If you’re using an open flame, I strongly recommend using a double boiler rather than placing the saucepan directly over the heat.
Beeswax is flammable once it reaches high temperatures, and a double boiler keeps everything much safer by gently heating the mixture with steam rather than direct heat, especially if you have a gas cooktop. I use a pot directly on my ceramic top stove, but do this at your own risk.
Stir occasionally as everything melts together but stay there with it the whole time, if it smokes heavily for any reason, your element is too hot, remove it from the heat and put a lid on it to avoid it bursting into flame.
Don’t worry if the resin takes a little longer than the beeswax—it usually does.
Once everything has completely melted together, remove the pan from the heat and stir through the jojoba oil.
You’ll immediately notice the mixture becoming beautifully smooth and glossy.
One confession…
When I photographed this tutorial I was feeling a little lazy and didn’t bother crushing the resin or chopping the beeswax as finely as I normally would. It still worked perfectly, but it definitely took longer to melt than it should have!
Step 2 – Prepare Your Fabric
While your wax mixture is melting, it’s time to prepare the fabric.
I always recommend washing and drying your fabric before cutting it.
This removes any sizing left over from the manufacturing process and allows the wax mixture to soak into the fibres much more evenly.
Once the fabric has been washed, cut it into whatever sizes you’ll use most often.
I generally make a mixture of sizes because they all end up getting used around the kitchen.
Smaller wraps are perfect for:
Wrapping cheese, half an avocado, lemons and children’s snacks.
Medium wraps are ideal for:
Sandwiches, homemade bread rolls and lunchboxes.
Larger wraps become incredibly useful for covering mixing bowls, salad bowls and platters when guests come over.
The recipe here makes around six sandwich-sized wraps measuring approximately 30 × 30cm (12 × 12 inches).
For this batch I actually made mine considerably larger because Christmas was coming up and I knew I’d be covering lots of platters.
If you own pinking shears, they’re worth using as the zig-zag edge helps reduce fraying over time.
I didn’t own any when I originally made these, so straight cuts worked perfectly well too.
Step 3 – Paint on the Wax Mixture
Once everything has completely melted together, place one piece of fabric onto a sheet of aluminium foil.
Using an old paintbrush, begin brushing the wax mixture over one side of the fabric.
Don’t worry about making it absolutely perfect.
The wax cools surprisingly quickly, and the oven will help it spread through the fibres evenly in the next step.
I usually start in the middle and brush towards the edges, making sure every part of the fabric has at least a light coating.
It’s much easier to add a little more later than it is to remove excess wax.
If your mixture begins thickening while you’re working, simply place the saucepan back over gentle heat for a minute or two.
Step 4 – Bake Until the Wax Soaks Through
Preheat your oven to around 100°C (200°F).
Place the foil and fabric onto a baking tray and pop it into the oven for about five minutes.
As the wax warms again, it melts deep into the fibres of the cotton.
When you remove the tray you’ll probably notice darker patches where the wax has soaked through completely and lighter patches where it hasn’t reached yet.
This is perfectly normal.
If needed, simply brush on a little more wax mixture and return the wrap to the oven for another two or three minutes.
Your goal is an even coating all the way through the fabric—not thick blobs sitting on top.
Once the entire piece looks evenly saturated, it’s ready.
Step 5 – Cool the Wraps
Remove the fabric from the baking tray while it’s still warm.
I usually lift it off using a pair of kitchen tongs, although if you’re careful it cools quickly enough that you can often pick it up by hand after a few seconds.
Simply wave it gently through the air or hang it over a clothes airer, drying rack or even the oven door.
Within two or three minutes the coating will have hardened and your wrap is ready to use.
It’s always a satisfying moment.
The floppy piece of cotton suddenly transforms into a reusable food wrap with a beautiful soft finish.
Cleaning Up Afterwards
If you’ve ever worked with beeswax before, you’ll know that it has a habit of sticking to absolutely everything.
Fortunately there’s one simple trick that makes cleaning much easier.
Before washing your saucepan, wipe out as much of the remaining wax as possible using old paper towels or rags.
Removing most of the wax first stops it coating your sink and makes washing up much easier.
Another option is to leave the remaining wax in the saucepan until your next batch.
If you regularly make beeswax wraps, this saves both time and waste.
Using Your Homemade Beeswax Wraps
Using beeswax wraps is wonderfully simple.
Place the wrap over your food or container, then gently warm it with your hands for a few seconds.
Your body heat softens the wax mixture just enough for the wrap to mould around bowls, plates or food.
As it cools again, it holds its shape surprisingly well.
We use ours almost every day.
They’re perfect for wrapping:
Fresh bread, sandwiches, cheese, muffins, slices, biscuits, fruit, vegetables and lunchbox snacks.
They also make excellent covers for rising bread dough, leftovers and salad bowls.
One thing I don’t recommend is wrapping raw meat.
Raw meat juices can soak into the fabric and are difficult to remove completely, making it much harder to keep the wraps hygienic.
For anything containing raw meat or fish, I still use containers with washable lids instead.
How to Care for Your Beeswax Wraps
One of the nicest things about homemade beeswax wraps is that they aren’t disposable.
With a little care, the same wraps can last anywhere from six months to a year of regular use before they need refreshing.
Looking after them is surprisingly easy, and after a while it simply becomes part of your normal kitchen routine.
How to Wash Beeswax Wraps
Because the coating is made from beeswax, resin and oil, hot water is the enemy.
Heat softens the wax, which means washing your wraps in hot water or putting them through the dishwasher will gradually remove the protective coating.
Instead, wash them by hand in cool or lukewarm water using a small amount of mild dishwashing liquid.
Once they’re clean, simply hang them over the dish rack or clothes airer until they’re dry.
They’ll usually be ready to use again within a few minutes.
How Long Do Beeswax Wraps Last?
That depends on how often you use them.
In our kitchen, where they’re used almost every day, they generally last somewhere between six and twelve months before they need a fresh coating.
If you only use them occasionally, they’ll often last much longer.
The first thing you’ll usually notice isn’t that they stop working completely.
Instead, they gradually become less sticky.
The coating slowly wears away with washing and repeated use.
Fortunately, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s time to throw them away.
How to Make Beeswax Wraps Sticky Again
If your wraps aren’t sticking as well as they used to, don’t panic.
Most wraps can be refreshed in just a few minutes.
The first thing I always do is give them a proper wash.
Dust, crumbs and cooking oils slowly build up on the surface, reducing the natural tackiness of the resin.
A gentle wash in cool water with a little dish soap is often all they need.
If they’re still not gripping properly after they’ve dried, place them on a foil-lined baking tray and warm them in a low oven at around 100°C (200°F) for three to five minutes.
This melts the coating just enough for it to redistribute itself evenly through the fabric again.
Allow them to cool completely before testing them.
You’d be surprised how many wraps this simple trick brings back to life.
If they’re still not sticky enough after that, it’s probably time for a fresh coat of wax mixture.
Why Are My Beeswax Wraps Too Sticky?
Believe it or not, it’s possible to have the opposite problem too.
If your wraps leave wax behind on bowls or feel almost tacky enough to pull fibres off tea towels, you’ve probably applied a little too much coating.
This happened to me on one of my early batches.
I thought more wax would make better wraps.
It didn’t.
The easiest fix is to place the wrap back into a low oven for a few minutes until the coating melts again.
Then gently blot the surface with another piece of cotton fabric or a paper towel to absorb the excess.
Once cooled, the wrap should feel much more natural.
If you find this keeps happening, try reducing the amount of mixture you brush onto the fabric next time.
It’s amazing how little you actually need.
Can Beeswax Wraps Be Recoated?
Absolutely.
In fact, one of the biggest advantages of making your own wraps is that you already have the recipe for refreshing them.
Rather than throwing an old wrap away, simply brush on a fresh, thin layer of the beeswax mixture and repeat the oven process.
Within minutes your wraps will often feel almost like new again.
Eventually the fabric itself will begin wearing out, but by then you’ve usually had years of use from what started as a simple piece of cotton.
When they finally reach the end of their life, cotton fabric coated in natural beeswax can usually be composted.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you make beeswax wraps without tree resin?
Yes, but I don’t recommend it if you want wraps that perform like commercial ones. Beeswax-only wraps tend to crack more easily and don’t cling nearly as well.
Can you make beeswax wraps without jojoba oil?
Yes. Olive oil or sweet almond oil are suitable substitutes, but jojoba oil consistently produces the most flexible and durable wraps.
Can I use old bed sheets?
Definitely. Thin 100% cotton sheets make excellent reusable food wraps and are a great way to upcycle fabric you already have.
Can I use flannelette?
It’s generally too thick. Lightweight woven cotton works much better because the wax can soak evenly through the fibres.
Can I wrap cheese?
Yes, and it’s one of my favourite uses. Cheese actually stores beautifully because the fabric allows it to breathe instead of trapping moisture.
Can I wrap sourdough bread?
Absolutely. Beeswax wraps are wonderful for homemade bread because they help prevent it drying out while avoiding the condensation that often forms inside plastic bags.
Can I freeze food in beeswax wraps?
You can for short periods, but the wraps become much stiffer when frozen. Containers generally work better for long-term freezer storage.
Can I microwave beeswax wraps?
No. The heat will melt the coating.
Can they go in the dishwasher?
No. The hot water will quickly ruin the wax coating.
Do beeswax wraps really replace plastic wrap?
For most everyday kitchen jobs, yes. Ours have almost completely replaced cling film for sandwiches, leftovers, baking and cheese.
Final Thoughts
Learning how to make beeswax wraps was one of the simplest changes we made when trying to reduce waste in our kitchen, and it’s a project I still recommend to friends years later.
They’re practical, surprisingly easy to make and genuinely useful.
Best of all, once you’ve made a batch, you’ll probably find yourself reaching for them almost every day.
If you’re giving homemade beeswax wraps as gifts, don’t be surprised if people ask you where you bought them. The combination of beeswax, jojoba oil and tree resin creates wraps that feel remarkably similar to the expensive commercial versions.
I hope this guide helps you avoid the trial and error that I went through while experimenting with different recipes.
If you make a batch, I’d love to hear how they turn out. Leave a comment below and let me know what fabrics, patterns or tips you’ve discovered along the way.
Related Articles
If you enjoyed this project, you might also like:
- How to Make Apple Cider Vinegar with the Mother
- How to Make 100% Coconut Oil Soap
- How to Care for Beeswax Wraps
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If you found this tutorial helpful, I’d really appreciate you sharing it with someone who’s trying to reduce plastic waste or enjoys making things from scratch. Every share helps more people discover traditional, sustainable skills.
Related: Caring for your wraps properly
CLEAN UP TIP – wipe your pot out with paper towels/rags before attempting to wash it.
Got any questions? What do you use instead of plastic wrap? Let me know in the comments below!
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These are a beeswax, tree rosin and oil infused cloth, that self-adheres, is reusable and can come in any pattern or size you like. In fact, the beeswax-infused cloth is better for storing food in because it also breathes so your food won't sweat. No more slimy soggy cheese edges or squishy avocado. I use tongs to pick it up with, though it cools very quickly, sometimes I use my fingers and just wave it in the air a bit to set it. Now it is ready to use, simply place your beeswax wrap over the dish that you want to cover, and use the warmth of your hands to soften the wrap and help the wax to stick to itself. Do not use your beeswax wrap to wrap meat, the juices can soak in to the cloth and cause bad bacteria to infect it (not to mention the stink!) Beeswax wraps are perfect to wrap bread, cake, cookies, cheese, nuts and sandwidges. These homemade food wraps are great for school lunches, or to keep your homemade bread fresh, or stop your cheese sweating in the fridge. As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, I earn from qualifying purchases.
How to Make Beeswax Wraps
Materials
Tools
Instructions
So today I was lazy and didn't chop or crush, it worked, but it would have been much easier to melt if the pieces were smaller
It is not a trick, these are bigger than stated, I wanted some large ones for platters for the festive season. These are 'fat quarters' 50x52cm.
Try and get it even-ish, it cools fairly quickly and heating it in the oven helps even it out.
See here the dark patch is where the wax has soaked through, the rest has not yet soaked through.
Here you can see it is totally soaked through with the wax.CLEAN UP TIP - wipe your pot out with paper towels/rags before attempting to wash it.
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interesting. i’ll have to remember this for later.
Hi,
I hope you are well. I was wondering if your wraps turns out soft or more sturdy and makes that crackling sound? (When you fold the wraps and pull them apart, there’s this nice cracking sound)
I am using beeswax, Jojoba oil and damar resin and it turns out soft every single time. If i use less oil, then it will be dry.
I hope you can advise.
Thanks
It is more to do with how much of the mixture that you put on the fabric, the thicker the mixture the stiffer the end result. Hope that helps
Hi, thank you for the recipe! How do you know if the wax you’re melting is enough? I have made a couple of batches but I’m having a hard time figuring out of it is too little or too much… thanks in advance!
Hi there, thanks for the recipe – it has worked well. But I purchased the fabric from Amazon as suggested and some colours have run. Really annoying as they don’t look so amazing now. Do you know of another supplier of better quality fabric?
Lynette
Hi,
I have been making wraps but having a lot of trouble getting the pine resin to melt….is this normal? I just end up with a very sticky residue at the bottom of the jug I am melting everything in…..
I have not used pine resin as I recommend damar resin. It should melt if you crush it up and give it plenty of time on the heat, make sure you are stirring it well
Can other types of tree resin be used? For example, Douglas Fir resin? I would like to use something I can source locally rather than buying online.
Hi Megan, I am not sure sorry, I have only made them with Damar, and know of people using Pine, I am fairly certain that douglas fur would be similar to pine? Just be aware that many who choose to use pine resin comment on the pine smell of the wraps.
I made some wraps but they keep leaving residue on the glass, to get it off I have to heat up the container. Any tips?
Hi Willow, It is possible that you have the mixture too thick on the fabric. You could try heating one in the oven and blotting the excess off to see if that helps
I have made a couple of them and they work great but they keep leaving residue on the the glass. What can I do to fix it, because to get the residue off I have to heat up the container.
I tried making wraps from a different recipe using just oil and wax but they’re cracking along fold lines before I’ve even had a chance to use them. I’ve purchased the damar resin and am hoping to have better luck this time around – is it possible to re-melt the wraps I’ve already made and apply the resin, or should I just start again with a new batch?
Hi, a message from Europe ! Thanks for your post, and as many I have attempted to make beeswax wraps as I think they make such a good replacement for plastic, and the less we need plastic, the better.
I also bought some online to make the comparison between what I made and what is being sold. What struck me most was the smell. The ones I bought really had a nice honey smell, are thicker and and more pliable. The ones I made have a strong (not so nice) smell (I used pine resin) and are more tacky than the ones I bought. What could I possibly do to get the same result ? Or is it just that home made will always be different than the ones offered commercially ? Thanks for your comment, best regards
I think it’s the pine resin I used damar & they smell like honey I also used coconut oil instead of jojoba
I had the same experienc: the smell was too strong! My advice: wash with mild soap, rince and hang your beeswraps outside for a day or two: the smell will not be so strong and someday, it bill be gone.
Hello,
I am preparing beeswax wraps for one of my school projects. We are planning to collect specific wastes from restaurants and coffee shops like a coffee waste, eggshells, orange peels, etc. My plan is to rather than using plastic bags to collect these bags, using cotton bags coated with beeswax, linseed oil, and pine resin. Because beeswax is also antibacterial it might be a good idea. However, I have some concerns. What are you thinking about collecting food waste ideas? Do you think it is not hygienic? Also, I don’t want these bags to be sticky that much. Do you have any suggestions about how to get rid of this stickiness?
Hi, I honestly feel you would be better off using plastic or metal buckets to collect scraps, you will find that despite the waterproofing fabric bags will still be difficult to clean and smell very bad. The resin is what makes it sticky. You might like to look at my oilcloth recipe here
best of luck
Hi! I love your recipe! And I just made a hole lot as Christmas presents.
I also go to the Christmas market to sell my crochet baskets and was wondering if I could sell these too?! Do you know if there are any rules or legal requirements to sell these wraps? Thanks! Marcella
Can you please tell me how you got the pine resin to melt? I’m still getting clumps. I’m doing it over water
Said Cathy, mine turned into a lump of taffy and never incorporated. Ground fine too….?
Hello,
How do you store these? And how many wraps does your recipe make?
Courtney
I keep mine folded in a drawer. As for how many it makes, it depends on how big you make them, this recipe makes 4-6 sandwich wraps
My daughter is thinking of setting up a DIY make-it-yourself station at her college to fundraise for their environmental club. Can you give any insight on whether a crockpot on high setting would be warm enough to sufficiently blend ingredients?
Yes, that should work just fine
Hi Dana
I have been making wraps with Beeswax, jojoba oil and pine resin. I find however that when they dry and I try folding them there is a powdery line across them, not sure if it is the wax or resin. Do you have any idea how I could fix this problem
Cheers
Shirley
I have not come across this issue, I wonder if it is something in the pine resin?
A Note of Caution! It wasn’t obvious from the pictures and I did quickly glance through the text, but any heating of wax (including jojoba oil which is actually also a wax) or resin needs to be done over the top of boiling water i.e. a bain marie setup. These ingredients are highly flammable and you need to regulate the temperature to stop them igniting. Should it ignite, do NOT be tempted to throw water on it – it will behave like oil and make the problem far worse! A bain marie setup ensures the temperature cannot go beyond 100 degrees celcius and makes it much safer. Be wary of naked flames (e.g. gas) and wax/resin drips on hotplates etc, also!
I’d say never cook oil/wax/resin without having a lid prepared next to it if it ever starts spilling hot wax droplets in the air (risk of severe burns), or even worse catching fire. BTW, a C02 fire extinguisher costs less than 30$.
Hi I have seen white beeswax do you think it would work?
What kind lf mild soap do you use? I would think dish soap would be a no because it is designed to breakup oils.
I am wondering about how long it takes to melt the damar resin.
Thanks Dana for this great recipe! do you know if Damar resin and barnish are the same? I cant get nor the pine nor the damar resin but I saw in our local art shop that they had damar barnish. Would it be toxic? Thanks again!
All the best.
Can I ask please if you put 1 fabric piece in the oven at a time or if you can layer them up ? I have bought all the bits and cut the fabric just need to get on and make them now!!! Thank you in advance for your help
Hi Emma, I have done both in the past. It depends on your fabric – some colours bleed, these ones are best done alone! I will often stack 2-3 of the same fabric and bake them all at once.
If there’s ample money in the jackpot your opposition can probably contact, providing you with a great picture
at doubling up.
Hii
I have been making beeswax wrapping that is a small bussines.I used your reciepes.First it was perfect the wrong thing is not sticky than I increased pine rosin half beeswax/half pine rosin It is better even though it wasn’t sticky.
The other problem is It smells very strong.Some consumer is very unhappy from this.Could you please help me ?What can be done?
Sincerely
Hello Mumune Koyu, there is a french blogger that experimented on pine resin and reported the same issue: brown deposits, strong smell. See link: http://valesavabien.blogspot.com/2017/08/emballe-cest-pese-tu-parles-charles.html
The blogger has nice pictures of her experimentations.
On conclusion, the author recommended the following recipe: 80% beeswax, 20% dammar resin, 3 soup spoons of jojoba oil per litre
Hi, your post keeps popping up on my Pinterest page, which is great. Good helpful article. One thing, please could you correct your spelling of ‘commercial’. Thanks
Hello Dana
I’ve had fun making these wraps and learning as I go. The first batch I made, i followed your recipe exactly but used pine resin. The wraps didn’t stick to themselves but were stiff enough. Today I doubled the resin and they are much better. I live in a very dry and cold climate, at a fairly high elevation (1045m/3400ft). I wonder if that has anything to do with it?
A couple of little tricks that have been helpful for me: 1) using parchment paper with a cloth on top to catch the extra wax solution-eventually it makes another wrap. 2) I use a heavy small sauce pan and place it on low for melting – no double boiler needed. 3) I used cotton napkins from a thrift store – no cutting or sewing! Altho’ they are all one size.
Thanks so much for your recipe!
Annetta from Canada
Interesting! I wonder if the elevation has something to do with it? Or the temperature – the warmer they are the more sticky they are. Great tips with stopping the dripping.
Hi,
I’ve tried on a few different bits of my fabric with more or less mixture on each and it’s just doesn’t stick to itself. I followed your recipe exactly, should I add more resin?
The fabric moves and feels like the stuff you buy just not sticking to itself.
Thanks
If your area is particularly cold, they will be less sticky, did you try warming the wraps with your hands? More resin might be helpful.
Hi! I made my wraps but it were too much sticky first, I took them and my hands were sticky after that. However, it didn’t stick to what I wanted or to itself, I had to use a band. Now that I have washed them it look just as a hard fabric. I just used jojoba oil and beewax
What could I do?
My beeswax is too sticky, is that normal? I didn’t know what type of beewax I had to buy: for cosmetics or virgin?
Thank youuu! 🙂
The damar resin helps the mixture ‘set’ as well as stick, so it will not work so well without it. Beeswax is usually solid and hard at room temperature?
Hello I did buy some wraps from a market i was at and they feel really thick. I thought I would try making them myself. I made mine with the Pine resin and Jojoba oil. Mine feel really thin not thick like the ones I bought. Could this be because I didn’t use enough mixture? I made one 8×8 11×11 14×14. What should have been the recipe? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Ms. B
Hi
I have tried a few different recipes to make beeswax wraps but was so happy to find yours as beeswax here locally costs $25 for a kilo. I have made a few now and have given some away, kept some for myself and recently sold some. I never thought I would be able to go cling wrap free but here I am and it’s thanks to you. I am going to put a link in my webpage so when people click on it they come here as well if that’s ok with you.
well done! Yes, by all means link to my page!
It could be how much mixture you are putting on, as well as how thick the cotton fabric is before you start 😀
I made some wraps using pine resin ( I had some at home) : actually, the resin has a strong scent (not bad though) and takes a long time to melt properly. But it worked well and the smell disapeared after some days. I used different fabrics cut from old clothes: cotton, viscose and silk. All of them work fine. The wraps made of silk (from an old blouse) are just amazing: very light, elastic and soft, THE luxury version of beeswax wraps! Viscose makes also nice wraps that are more elastic than the cotton ones. I also used old (clean and ironed!) hankies: I like them because they have a neat seam and different design (checked, flowers, children figures…): I would just recommand not to use the very thin ones. Anyone tried something else???
Hello, I recently made some wraps (before I saw your recipe) with slightly different ratios. I used 2 parts beeswax, 1 part pine resin and 1 part jojoba oil, ( or 1/2 cup, 1/4 cup, 1/4 cup respectively). My wraps are really sticky and leave residue on everything, including my hands after I have handled them. I will try reheating in oven and blotting, but just wondering, do you think its too much resin, or too much oil that is causing stickiness? Wish I had done a test run, as I made a lot of them, and not sure if this will fix the problem! Thanks
Hi Christine, From my experience it is a combination of both the oil and the resin that make the stickiness. Without the oil, it is much less sticky and kind of sets hard, without the resin it is flexible but much less tacky. Hopefully it is just that you put too much on the fabric, but by the look of your ratios, there is nowhere near enough wax in that recipe. Let me know how you get on with the blotting 😀
My friend and I have started making wraps to sell, as there were not a lot available locally. Check out our Facebook or Instagram page at Waxworx, we make packs of three or individuals, they are a great start to getting rid of single use plastic. Great tutorial, thanks
These are great, thanks! I actually melted my wax and resin in the microwave. I managed to get the beeswax as offcuts from a local company selling honey and the resin from eBay. Great to have these comments as the resin clumped and wondered if I was doing it wrong, but just needed patience! Perfect Christmas presents – I cut up some old ripped pyjamas and a shirt which I couldn’t bear to throw away as I loved the fabric so much.
Hiya,
I’m about to try your recipe and wondering how coconut oil (deodorised so no smell) would work in place of johoba oil? Just trying to keep the costs down as I have plenty of coconut oil on hand and apparently johoba oil is expensive.
Thanks for sharing your recipe and method 🙂
Cheers
Rosie
I have not tried coconut oil myself. I feel that part of the benefit of jojoba oil is that it is liquid at room temperature, so it helps the wraps be flexible. I would be worried that coconut oil would be too stiff. You could try another liquid oil – I have used olive oil before with good success.
I tried coconut : it works very well!
I followed your recipe but my wraps arent as sticky as I would like. They fold and hold their shape beautifully, they’re not tacky and the fabric dont stick to itself. Do you have any suggestions on how I may improve tackiness and stickyness?
Hi Awatea, it is possible you simply need a little more mixture on each. Otherwise adding a little more resin next time will increase the sticky quality.
Loved this recipe. The wraps turned out perfectly. I think a double boiler to keep the wax mixture warm between applications would have made the process easier. Also ran out of aluminum foil and used parchment paper and it worked fine. Halved the recipe for a few pieces of fabric I had left and that worked well also.
Great feedback, thank you!
Hi,
I would like to make some of the wraps for Christmas presents.
Can you please tell me where I can buy the beeswax and the other ingredients?
Thank you
Sophie
Hi Sophie, the links are in the post for your convenience.
Good evening Dana,
An immence thank you for your recipe sharing. it’s great to be able to do even its products.
however, I encounter a little difficulty. I followed the recipe to the letter and yet my fabric sticks hugely and leaves a film of wax on the container.
can you help me Please?
Claire
Hi Claire,
It sounds like you have too much mixture on the fabric. Try warming it in the oven to re-melt the wax on the fabric, and blot off the excess.
Thanks for this recipe it worked great for me. It is my first experience with beeswax wrap and I dind that they leave a on the dishes I cover with them. Do i need to decrease the amount of resin? I did use half jojoba oil and half coconut oil. Could that be the problem.
Hi Shannon, it might be that you have a little too much of the mixture on the cloth, in which case you can heat them in a low oven and blot some off with a paper towel. Make sure the dishes are cool when you cover them, if they are hot they will melt the wax out of the cloth and on to the dish!
HI,
I’ve try several time just bee wax is fine but as soon as I try with rosin it never really melt with the beewax properly.
And when it does it leaves a kind of sediment once it’s dry.
Ant idea what could it be ?
Thank you so much
Romane
Hi Romane, is your resin finely ground? It will dissolve better if it is. It melts at a much higher temperature. If it is leaving a powdery sediment I wonder about the purity of the resin, it may have dust in it
Hi, can I mix damar resin and pine resin 50/50? I live in Canada and have ordered damar resin from New Zealand, however it is expensive, especially with the shipping. Thanks for you help and for sharing your recipe.
Regards,
Angela
Hi Angela, you can totally use pin resin if you like. We just cannot get it here. They will work the same 😀
hi !! thank you for the recip
My fabric get soooo stickyyyyy !! 🙁 maybe cause i put to much resine? bee wax??? i put coconut oil instead of jojoba… HELP “
Hi, It is more likely that you have too much mixture on the fabric, you could try heating it in the oven and blotting some off with more fabric. Too much resin or not enough bees wax would make it too sticky if there really isn’t too much on each piece. But I would try blotting some off first. Let me know how you get on.
Thank you thank you ! you are so nice ! i will try that and maybe a little bit more bee wax :*
Hi
I can’t read your responses as your photo is covering all of your responses.
This question was probably asked but I can’t see your response so I would like to know where to purchase food grade damar resin to make the food wraps if that is what you use or do you use the damar resin sold in art supply stores?
Have you tried a double boiler? I melt all of my beeswax in a double boiler for the same reason and have never had an issue with the temperature being too high, so it may help with the resin..,
I’m curious as to why you use the jojoba oil for it’s antimicrobial properties. Natural beeswax already has tons of antimicrobial/bacterial properties. I’m going to use wax from our hives that has had solids (bee bodies, etc) filtered out and as far as I know still retains all the good properties of honey and wax. Truly curious–maybe it’s not enough microbial action? Thanks!
I think the choice of Jojoba is 3 fold – 1) you need a soft oil that won’t go rancid – so not olive or canola oil 2) it sounds fancy so businesses use is to make their product seem of higher quality and 3) it happens to have antimicrobial properties without having a strong odor. You can switch it out for something cheaper/easier to get like sunflower or safflower oil. Let me know how you get on!
Hello there Dana.. I’ve been using Bees Wax wraps for the last couple of years, but could never get the mix right, until coming across your website. Thank you so much for sharing this.
One question, I’m having trouble stopping the damar gum from clumping… I find if I have a high heat, that works ok, but then the pot starts smoking and the gum starts becoming black . I’d appreciate some feedback as to what I am doing wrong here.
Michelle x
Hi Michelle, I am glad you found the recipe helpful! It is a fine balance between not hot enough and too hot. Somewhere in the middle, with some patience, is the perfect spot. Mine does clump until it melts properly. I try and keep it just off smoking point (beeswax will ignite if it is too hot) and stir, stir, stir until it is mixed through. It clumps less if you powder it up first in a mortar and pestle first, but stirring and giving it time is the best answer I have.
Do you think manuka oil might work as well as jojoba oil? Just looking for a more local ingredient…
Hi Rachel – I am unfamiliar with manuka oil – if it is particularly pungent the smell with taint the taste of the food your wrap up. I have heard of people replacing it with olive oil with success if that is helpful (cheaper too, even when you buy yummy local stuff!)
Just made some wraps using your recipe and they turned out perfectly! Thank you for your excellent instructions
Hello! Any chance that carnuba wax would work in place of beeswax?
It is my understanding that it has similar properties, so it would be worth a try!
Hi, can I use sweet almond oil for the same effect or even cold pressed olive oil in place of jojoba oil? I’m really looking forward to making these (have the beeswax , damar gum and pinking shears!- all from trademe) – not only are they kind to the environment, they also look so lovely.
Hi Christina, you can use a different oil if you choose. Jojoba is pricey but it is also a anti-microbial which I believe is why it is chosen, I have heard of others using olive oil with success.
I found the resulting wraps weren’t sticky at all? I used a 1:5 ratio beeswax:damar plus a little jojoba oil. 100% cotton fabric. Can’t see an obvious place I’ve gone wrong – any advice?? Am currently thinking I’ll try again with a higher resin content.
Hi Wendy – this mix should work. Have you put it on thick enough? There is a fine line between too thick and it cracks, perfect and sticky and not enough so it is not sticky.
Raising the resin may help, the jojoba oil is key to stickiness too, if you don’t have enough the melting point of the resin and bees wax is quite high so it won’t get sticky with the warmth of your hands.
I hope that helps!
Hi Dana, I’m giving these wraps a go and finding that double boiling (which is how I’ve melted beeswax in the past) isn’t melting the resin. Have you had this before? As far as I can see, you melt straight in a pot, is that right? If so, I might have to head down to the Op shop to see if I can pick up a pot that’s dedicated to beeswax wrap making!
Hi Mel, yes I melt it straight in a pot. You do have to be careful as beeswax (like all oils) is flammable, so of course you must watch it at all times. The resin does need a higher heat to melt and the finer you manage to crush it, the faster it will melt. All the best!
These instructions and ratio of ingredients turned out great for me. The only change I made was using pine rosin rather than the damar resin – just because it’s what I had. I realised just exactly why you suggested using an ‘old’ pot! I went straight out afterwards and bought a little old one from the hospice which I will keep for this. Also, I don’t think that the brush I used will be much good for anything else after this either!
A good friend of mine bought me some wraps last year and though I thought they were great, the ones I’ve now made are even better! They smell better, are softer and more maleable, and I don’t have to hold and warm them as much to make them cling.
Thanks so much for these instructions Dana!
Fei, I am so happy that they worked well for you! We haven’t bought plastic wrap in over 3 years now thanks to these wraps!
The damar resin I have found at http://www.shaman.co.nz they have it in powdered form, do you think this would work or should I just buy the solid which is slightly cheaper.
Thank you for the DIY I am definately going to try, have tried with straight beeswax and didn’t find very successful.
Good of you to share, thank you
Hi Rae, The powdered form would work great! It saves you having to crush it. It is quite easy to crush with a mortar and pestle if you get the bigger stuff.
Great! I wonder……why do you add damar resin? How does it improve the wrap? If I can’t find the damar resin, is there some other resin I can use? Have you tried without it, with just beeswax an jojoba oil?
Hi Mayki,
The damar resin adds a strength and durability to the coating, and helps with the stickiness of it. I have made them with straight beeswax before, and they do work – sort of. The stickiness makes them much easier to use. I know you can use pine resin, and I am sure any others that aren’t too strongly smelling would also work well. You can get damar from amazon, and some artist supply stores 🙂 I hope that helps!
Dana
Thank you Dana! One more question…..in your recipe it is “3t Jojoba oil”, what does the “t” stand for?
Best wishes
Mayki
A little t is a teaspoon shorthand, I will make it clearer on the post. Thanks
Damar resin has a low toxicity but the dust should not be breathed… I wouldn’t use this on food wrap? Use food grade Pine tree resin/rosin
Hi KB, thank you for your concern.
Damar resin is actually used in foods and is food safe. You should not inhale any dust or resin in general as particulates of anything shouldn’t be in your lungs and some things cause allergies. Wikipedia has some information on damar here for you: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dammar_gum
Sounds great Dana. Where can I buy the beeswax, the resin and the jojoba oil?
Pat, you can get most of the ingredients from somewhere like purenature.co.nz, kiwisoapsupplies.co.nz or gonative.co.nz. The damar resin is harder to find, try a boutique art store like http://www.tasart.co.nz or sometimes it is on Trade Me. Let me know how you get on 🙂